6 days in Perth, Australia- 5/22- 5/27/2024

Day 1-Arrival, Perth-5/22/2024

Today we flew from Adelaide to Perth, the capital of Western Australia.  Perth sits beautifully along the Swan River, where modern city life meets vast natural landscapes. It’s one of the most isolated major cities in the world, closer to Jakarta than to Sydney, yet it thrives as a vibrant, cosmopolitan hub surrounded by stunning beaches and expansive parklands.

Historically, Perth was founded in 1829 as part of the Swan River Colony by Captain James Stirling. The area had long been home to the Noongar people, who lived along the river they called Derbarl Yerrigan. The British settlers established Perth as the administrative and commercial center, but life was challenging at first, isolated from the eastern colonies and reliant on supply ships. The discovery of gold in the 1890s transformed Perth, bringing prosperity, rail connections, and a wave of migrants seeking fortune.

Today, Perth blends its colonial heritage with modern architecture and a relaxed lifestyle. The city is known for its wide streets, leafy parks like Kings Park (one of the world’s largest inner-city parks), and its arts and dining scene along Elizabeth Quay and Northbridge. As the sun sets over the Indian Ocean, Perth’s skyline glows, reflecting a city that has grown from an outpost into one of Australia’s most livable capitals.

On the left is the Brass Monkey Hotel is one of Perth’s most recognizable heritage pubs and a local landmark. It sits right at the corner of William and James Streets in Northbridge, an area known for its nightlife and creative energy.

The building itself dates back to the 1890s, during Perth’s gold rush boom, when the city was rapidly expanding and elegant corner hotels were symbols of prosperity. Originally called The Great Western Hotel, it was designed in the Federation Filigree style, which you can see in its ornate balconies, cast-iron lacework, and tall corner turret, which is very typical of prosperous Australian towns of that era.

Over the years, the hotel has gone through several name changes and renovations, finally becoming the Brass Monkey Hotel in the 1980s. The name reflects both the lively character of Northbridge and the building’s old-world charm. Inside, you’ll find a mix of historic details, pressed tin ceilings, wood paneling, alongside modern bar spaces and rooftop areas.

It’s more than just a pub; it’s a piece of Perth’s colonial past still buzzing with local life. Standing there, we are right at the heart of Northbridge, where old Perth meets its multicultural, artistic present.

The striking, angular gray building you see is part of the WA Museum Boola Bardip new design, which opened in 2020 after a major redevelopment. Its name, Boola Bardip, comes from the Whadjuk Noongar language and means “many stories,” reflecting the museum’s mission to share the diverse histories of Western Australia, from its ancient landscapes and Aboriginal heritage to its modern identity.

The Wirin statue, a powerful and symbolic artwork that stands tall near the entrance of the Perth Cultural Centre, close to the WA Museum Boola Bardip.

The figure’s upright stance and the elongated, stylized form reflect both traditional motifs and a contemporary vision of resilience and cultural pride. It’s meant to remind visitors that this land has always been home to the Whadjuk Noongar people, long before Perth became a city, and that their stories continue to shape its identity today.

Wirin represents the spirit of creative power and knowledge in Noongar culture. The statue was created by Tjyllyungoo (Lance Chadd), a respected Noongar artist, and it stands about 33 ft. high. Wirin holds a long staff or spear, symbolizing strength, wisdom, and the deep connection between people, land, and spirit.

Yagan Square is one of Perth’s most dynamic public spaces, rich in design and deep in cultural meaning. Opened in 2018, Yagan Square connects Northbridge with the Perth CBD (downtown), bridging what used to be a physical and symbolic divide between the two areas. The square is named after Yagan, a respected Noongar leader who played a key role during the early years of British settlement in the 1830s. His name honors the resilience and enduring spirit of the Whadjuk Noongar people, the Traditional Owners of this land.

The design of Yagan Square blends Aboriginal heritage with modern urban life. The curving shapes and red steel structures are inspired by the Western Australian landscape, the red earth, desert gorges, and flowing rivers. The area includes meeting places, native gardens, a digital tower that lights up with local art, and spaces for markets, dining, and performances

In the heart of the square is the Digital Tower, one of the square’s most eye-catching and symbolic features. Standing about 148 feet tall, the Digital Tower is wrapped in a series of curved steel “ribbons” that mirror the shapes of the nearby architecture and the flowing forms of the Western Australian landscape. These ribbons are illuminated at night, often changing colors and patterns to match events or city celebrations.   During our visit it lit up with the “$150 million Powerball” message.

When we passed by again later in the evening, the message was different as the tower often doubles as a community display board, showing news, art, local stories, and even special event announcements.

Across the street is the Royal Hotel.  It is a well-known, heritage-listed pub (originally established in 1882) located right on the corner of William and Wellington Streets, which is part of the Raine Square complex.

The building's classic, historic architecture, with its signature first-floor metal balconies (or veranda), stands in contrast to the sleek, modern office tower of the Raine Square development that rises directly behind it.

The sun is setting and that warm, low sunset light hitting the buildings, and glowing in the background, creating a truly striking contrast. It's a classic Perth CBD view where history and modern design meet beautifully, especially at the golden hour.

It such a lovely and beautiful scenery you do not expect to see in a big city.

Perth is a big city, and here you can see a lot of people crossing the street.

On the left is the Bocelli Espresso and The Royal Hotel (on the right) is indeed one of the most striking sights in the CBD, especially when the setting sun hits it just right.

Bocelli Espresso is a popular spot, serving coffee and quick bites from early morning until mid-afternoon, making it a bustling contrast to the late-day quiet of the street.

The Royal Hotel is a beautiful heritage pub with a classic corner presence. After a restoration, the hotel maintains its beautiful original facade.

The beautiful, long red brick building on Wellington Street is the Perth Railway Station.

This heritage building is a wonderful example of the Victorian Free Classical architectural style, constructed in the 1890s. The long facade, with its distinct red brickwork and white stucco detailing, is one of the most recognizable historic landmarks in the Perth CBD. The clock is a key feature of the central entrance, anchoring the building on Wellington Street.

This massive, bright green work of art is officially titled "Grow Your Own" and is often found standing proudly in Forrest Place, right next to the Perth Train Station.

It's an installation by the artist Fiona Hall and is definitely designed to be a striking, huge, and slightly whimsical contrast to the historic architecture around it. It's a popular landmark and a fantastic piece of street art.

We are now on Forrest Place. It is one of the most prominent civic spaces in the city, connecting the Perth railway station to the Murray Street Mall, and it is the focal point for major parades, cultural events, and public gatherings.

The imposing building that now houses H&M has a very rich and important history, as it was originally the Perth General Post Office (GPO).

The H&M building's construction was conceived around 1912 by architects John Smith Murdoch and Hillson Beasley. Work began in 1914, but was significantly delayed due to the outbreak of World War I, including a steel embargo by the British government. It took nearly ten years to build, finally opening in 1923.  At the time of its completion, it was the largest building in Perth. Its grand, monumental design, featuring a facade of local Donnybrook stone and massive paired Ionic columns, was intended to proclaim the power and presence of the new Commonwealth of Australia. It is recognized as a rare and excellent example of the Beaux-Arts style in Australia.

The building served as the principal postal facility for Western Australia for decades, and its front steps became a well-known gathering point for political meetings and demonstrations throughout the 1950s to 1980s.

After serving the city for nearly a century, Australia Post vacated the building in July 2016. The Swedish fashion retailer H&M opened its flagship Western Australian store in the iconic heritage building in March 2017, marking a significant new chapter for the landmark structure. During the refurbishment, great care was taken to preserve the heritage elements of the building while converting the space for its new retail purpose.

We are now at the Murray Street Mall, one of the two main pedestrian shopping precincts in Perth's CBD (the other being the parallel Hay Street Mall). Murray Street was one of the original east-west roads planned for the city of Perth and was named after Sir George Murray, who was the British Secretary of State for War and the Colonies from 1828 to 1830. Like other major streets, Murray Street developed as a commercial and residential thoroughfare in the 19th and early 20th centuries. The area experienced significant commercial development following the gold boom of the 1890s, with many smaller residential buildings replaced by larger commercial structures.

The central portion of Murray Street, located between Barrack and William Streets, was converted into a pedestrian mall, following the successful model of the Hay Street Mall. The transformation removed car traffic to create a dedicated retail and social space.

Tonight we are craving Vietnamese food, and we found Sup so Good, a very popular Vietnamese restaurant located in Northbridge, known for its extensive and authentic menu, especially its soups and specialty dishes.  Hoa of course had to order a bowl of Pho Dac Biet, which was pretty decent.

I ordered a Pho Ap Chao, fried crispy rice noodle, served with beef and vegetable. 

It definitely, satisfy our craving for Vietnamese food.

NEXT... Day 2 - Elizabeth Quay