Three weeks in New Zealand - 4/12 - 5/4/2024

Day 21-Milford Sound cruise-5/1/2024

Milford Sound, often called the “eighth wonder of the world,” is one of New Zealand’s most iconic natural treasures. Carved by glaciers during the last Ice Age, the fjord is framed by sheer cliffs that rise over a thousand meters straight out of the water, with lush rainforest clinging to their sides. Towering peaks like Mitre Peak create a dramatic backdrop, while countless waterfalls cascade down after rainfall, making every visit unique. Below is a map of our cruise trip.

Despite its name, Milford Sound is actually a fjord, not a sound, and it’s home to rich wildlife including seals, penguins, and dolphins.  When early European explorers, like Captain John Grono and later Captain John Stokes in the early 19th century, first sailed into Milford Sound, they used the term sound because that was the word they were familiar with for a large, navigable inlet. At the time, the distinction between fjords (glacially carved) and sounds (river or sea inlets) wasn’t widely recognized in European geography. So, even though Milford Sound is geologically a fjord, the name “sound” stuck from those first charts and descriptions. It’s a bit of a historical quirk that has lasted ever since!

We are now on the top of the boat and we are starting to sail through the pristine waters of the UNESCO World Heritage site.

As we are leaving the wharf at Milford Sound, the huge waterfall you see on the right is Lady Bowen Falls.

It’s one of only two permanent waterfalls in the fjord and the tallest, dropping about 531 feet straight into the sound. It’s also Milford’s main source of both power and fresh drinking water.

Lady Bowen Falls is incredibly powerful, with water thundering down from 531 feet into the fjord below. The spray can often be felt even from the cruise boats, showing just how much force the waterfall carries. Beyond its dramatic beauty, the falls provide enough energy to power the small settlement at Milford Sound and supply fresh drinking water, making it not only a natural wonder but also a vital lifeline for the area.

We are now entering the Fjord with is a long, narrow inlet with steep sides or cliffs, created by glaciers carving through valleys during the Ice Ages. Milford Sound is actually a fjord because it was shaped by glacial ice.

So, while Milford Sound carries the name “sound,” geologically it’s really a fjord, hence its deep waters, dramatic cliffs, and U-shaped valleys. A sound is usually a large sea or ocean inlet, often formed by the flooding of a river valley (not glaciers).

Our captain behind the wheel.  He is actually really good at telling the story while driving the boat.

The captain was pointing out something quite special about how vegetation clings to the steep, almost vertical mountain walls. The rock faces in Milford Sound are made of hard granite, which doesn’t have much soil. Yet, trees and plants manage to grow there. The process starts when moss and lichens settle into tiny cracks in the rock, slowly breaking it down and creating just enough soil for ferns and small shrubs to take root. Over time, larger plants and even trees begin to grow, their roots spreading thinly over the rock surface rather than deep into the ground.

This makes the forest cover very fragile. Sometimes, when the roots can no longer hold, whole sections of trees and plants can slide off the cliff in what’s called a “tree avalanche.” When this happens, the bare granite is exposed again, and the process of regrowth slowly begins. It’s a great example of nature’s persistence in such a dramatic landscape.

The boat is big so there are plenty of room for all the passengers to be comfortable and also the view from the upper deck is really amazing.

The Milford Sound is so green is because it is one of the wettest places in New Zealand, and it can receive over 19 to 22 ft. of rain a year.  This constant rainfall is a lifeline for the vegetation growing on the sheer cliffs. Because there’s very little soil, the roots can’t hold much water. Instead, the plants and trees survive by drinking directly from the rain as it trickles down the rock surface. You’ll often see thousands of little streams and waterfalls running down the cliffs after rain , these act like natural irrigation systems.

Hoa enjoying the view from the boat.

Love this picture!  I was able to capture a seagull flying very close to the boat.

While we were cruising, ahead of us is the Mitre Peak which is definitely a highlight because it’s one of the most famous landmarks in Milford Sound.  Mitre Peak rises dramatically straight out of the water to about 5,551 feet, making it one of the tallest mountains in the world to emerge directly from the sea. Its name comes from its shape because it resembles a bishop’s Mitre (a tall, pointed hat).

From the boat, you can really appreciate how sheer its sides are. Unlike many mountains that rise gradually, Mitre Peak almost looks like it was carved vertically with a knife. On calm days, the peak is often reflected in the still water of the fjord, creating one of New Zealand’s most photographed scenes. It’s considered sacred by Māori, and for them it’s called Rahotu, linked with legends about the creation of the landscape.

The boat getting close to the cliffs.

One of the most magical sights of Milford is the sheer cliffs and the enormous amount of rainfall, the mountains seem to grow waterfalls. After heavy rain, you can see hundreds of cascades pouring down from every direction, some tall and thin like silver threads, others roaring in wide streams.

On the cruise, as you pass close to the cliffs,  the water flows in long ribbons, sometimes drifting in the wind before reaching the sea. During and after rain, countless temporary waterfalls appeared and they’re often called “fairy falls” because they vanish as quickly as they come.

The boat is now pulling away and we continue our journey.

On the other side of the bay we can see Stirling Falls.

Stirling Falls is the 2nd permanent waterfall in Milford Sound.  Our captain told us that we will get really close to it toward the end of the trip.

The captain is taking us closer to the edge of the cliffs to see more waterfalls.

The boat is getting closer to the edge of the cliffs and we got a really close look at the water falling down.

Check out the rainbow below.

In this area there are two beautiful waterfalls.

The spray from the falls drifted across the water, creating misty curtains that shimmered in the sunlight and sometimes formed fleeting rainbows.

It was really fun to get so close to the waterfalls.

In the distance is Stirling Falls.  The captain will take us there later on.

We are reaching the end of the Sound where it will come in contact with the Tasman Sea.

This is the end of the Sound, and straight ahead is the Tasman Sea.

This area is so beautiful with the Tasman see straight ahead.

  As the boat turned around at the end of Milford Sound, the calm waters and quiet surroundings made it feel almost like entering a hidden world.

Every cliff you looked at seemed to be alive with waterfalls, tumbling down in countless silver threads from the mountain tops.

This area is known as seal Rock

On large, sun-warmed boulders along the shore, you could see seals lounging lazily, basking in the sun. Some stretched and yawned, others flicked their tails or flipped playfully into the water, completely unbothered by the passing boat.

We are now approaching the Stirling Fall and you can see on the left a cloud of mist (bottom left) from the waterfall.

As our boat drew closer, we all noticed how powerful and dramatic Stirling Falls is.

Stirling fall plunges straight down from 495 feet, fed by glaciers high in the mountains above. Because the cliffs here are so sheer, the water doesn’t tumble over rocks but instead falls almost in a single, unbroken white curtain.

The Māori name for it is Waimanu, meaning “cloud on the water,” which perfectly captures how the mist from the falls drifts across the fjord like a floating veil. When the captain steers the boat close to the base, the roar of the water echoes off the granite walls, and the spray whips across the deck, it’s an unforgettable experience.

Local guides often say that if you stand under Stirling Falls, the water will make you look ten years younger. Whether or not that’s true, most visitors can’t resist leaning into the mist for the thrill.

 Standing on the deck as the boat edged closer to Stirling Falls, you could feel the power of the water before you even reached it. The waterfall tumbled down with incredible force, striking the fjord below and exploding into a thick spray. The mist drifted outward, carried by the wind, and soon wrapped around the boat like a cool, refreshing cloud. The sound was a deep, thundering roar, echoing off the granite cliffs so strongly it seemed to vibrate in your chest.

 Getting close to the falls felt almost otherworldly, the combination of the icy spray on your face, the towering cliff overhead, and the sheer force of nature right in front of you made it one of the most unforgettable moments of the cruise.

As the boat pushed right up to the base of Stirling Falls, laughter and excitement filled the deck. The water thundered down with such force that the mist sprayed everywhere, soaking anyone brave enough to stand outside. Instead of running for cover, people leaned into it,  arms outstretched, hair plastered back, faces lit up with big smiles. It was as if the waterfall itself was sharing its energy, and everyone was caught up in the joy of the moment. Some joked about feeling ten years younger, while others simply closed their eyes and let the icy drops wash over them, grinning from ear to ear.

We were lucky that the sun came out today.  The captain told us it was raining really hard yesterday.

We are now in the Harrison cove, one of the most beautiful spots in Milford Sound. From the cove, you’re surrounded by towering mountains rising almost vertically from the water. Their steep slopes are covered in deep green rainforest, and you can often see thin silver waterfalls trickling down their faces. On a calm day, the peaks are perfectly mirrored in the still water of the cove, making the whole scene feel like a painting.

We are now getting closer to the Wharf and ahead is the beautiful Lady bowen waterfall.

Lady Bowen waterfall is so forcefull and also so beautiful.

Hoa in the cabin and waiting for the boat to stop so we can disembark.

Getting off the boat and heading to our bus

The drive from Milford Sound to Te Anau is about 2 1/2 hours but it did not seems very long because our bus drive told us a lot of history of the area on our way back.

The Road back was really beautiful.

Our Milford Sound cruise was an unforgettable journey through one of New Zealand’s most dramatic landscapes. From the moment we left the wharf, the sheer cliffs and lush vegetation clinging to the mountains amazed us. Mitre Peak rose majestically from the water, mirrored perfectly in the fjord, while countless waterfalls cascaded down the cliffs, some roaring and others delicate as silver threads. Getting close to Stirling Falls was a thrilling experience, the water thundered down with incredible force, sending cool mist over the deck and bringing smiles to everyone on board. In Harrison Cove, the calm water reflected the towering mountains, and at the far end of the sound, sunbathing seals on massive boulders added a playful, peaceful touch to the wild scenery. Every moment felt magical, a perfect blend of awe-inspiring nature and joyful adventure

NEXT... Te Anau Lake & Breakfast