3 weeks in Bali, Indonesia- 5/28- 6/15/2024

Day 4- Seseh Beach and Dinner-5/30/2024

We checked in Tamu Seseh located in one of Bali’s quiet coastal villages, a place that still feels traditional and peaceful even as the nearby areas become busier. The surroundings are mostly rice fields, small village roads, temples, and calm black-sand beaches, giving that classic Bali atmosphere that people often miss in the more developed tourist zones. It’s the kind of area where you hear roosters in the morning, see locals offering canang sari by the roadside, and feel the ocean breeze drifting in without the crowds.

After checking in our rental Villa, we rested a bit and checked out the property.

Dipping my feet in the pool, and then we have a little time before dinner so we decided to walk to the beach nearby.

It was after just after 6 pm with the sky turning orange, and there was barely anybody there. It often feels like a private stretch of coastline where people quietly share the space without disturbing its peace.

In the early evening, the black volcanic sand absorbs the last light of the day, giving the whole shoreline a soft, moody glow. The black sand of Seseh Beach is one of its most striking features. It comes from ancient volcanic rock that has been broken down over thousands of years by the Indian Ocean. Because the sand is darker, it holds heat longer, and at sunset it creates that dramatic contrast: the warm orange sky above and the deep black shoreline below. When the light hits it just right, the sand almost shines with a metallic shimmer, like tiny grains of obsidian.

The sound here is also a big part of the atmosphere with the deep, rolling crash of the Indian Ocean against the dark sand, a bit louder and heavier than on calmer beaches. And because the area around Seseh is still very much connected to village life, with temples and rice fields nearby, the beach has a kind of untouched, local charm that hasn’t been overdeveloped.

A man and his dogs running freely on the beach.

 A couple wrapped up in the moment facing the horizon.

The beach is usually calm and uncrowned, especially compared to Canggu or Batu Bolong.

The waves at Seseh are another defining part of the experience. This coastline is fully exposed to the open Indian Ocean, so the waves tend to be strong, powerful, and constant. They roll in with a deep rumble, breaking close to the shore with a lot of force. Even when the tide is lower, the currents can be unpredictable,  which is why the beach is more popular for quiet walking, sunset watching, and advanced surfers rather than casual swimming.

I just love walking here, it is so peaceful with the sound of the waves crashing around.

Dinner at Bu Reka, Canggu

Tonight, we are dining at Bu Reka, a true local Bali warung.

The restaurant is about 5 minutes from our Villa, and this is also the nicest restaurant in this area.

The restaurant has a surprisingly warm and thoughtful atmosphere.

The interior is simple yet beautifully arranged,  wooden tables, soft lighting, and small details that make the space feel inviting rather than polished or touristy. It’s the kind of place where you immediately feel that the cooking is personal, made with care, and rooted in family tradition.

The lighting at Bu Reka is one of the first things that truly stands out, those big woven bamboo lamps glowing warmly from the tall wooden ceiling, paired with the long rectangular bamboo lanterns hanging in a gentle line.

The atmosphere feels cozy, rustic and elegant, like a modern interpretation of a traditional Balinese home. The tall ceiling makes the space feel open, but the warm lights make it cozy at the same time.

A glass of wine to start the meal.

I ordered the slow cooked fish seafood curry with vegetable and rice.

The fish curry fits beautifully with the ambiance, fragrant, comforting, full of coconut and spices.

And Hoa’s nasi goreng, a true Balinese staple, adds that familiar, satisfying flavor you expect from a good local warung. The mix of comforting food and the warm bamboo glow makes the whole experience feel grounded, relaxed, and very much part of Bali’s gentle evening rhythm.

Both dishes were delicious@

One thing that adds to the character of Bu Reka is the way the owners interact with the neighborhood. When the stray dogs wander in, the staff doesn’t chase them away. Instead, they let them roam quietly around the restaurant, as if they are part of the community. It creates this gentle, home-like feeling, you’re not just eating at a restaurant, you’re sitting in someone’s extended backyard, sharing the evening with locals, travelers, and even the island’s dogs who find comfort there.

With the lighting, the wooden interior, the good food, and even the stray dogs wandering in peacefully, Bu Reka feels like one of those places where everything just flows together naturally, in that unmistakable Bali way.

NEXT... Canggu