A week Tasmania, Australia- 5/11- 5/16/2024
5 day tour of Tasmania-5/12/2024
Day 1 of 5 - National Parks
Today marks the start of our 5-day bus tour around Tasmania. We were picked up right from our hotel in Hobart and set off on a journey to explore three beautiful national parks on our first day. Our first stop was Russell Falls, located in Mount Field National park, where a short forest walk led us to the stunning tiered waterfall framed by tall ferns and towering trees. From there, we continued to Lake St. Clair, the deepest lake in Australia, surrounded by serene mountain scenery and crisp, fresh air. Later, we paused in the historic mining town of Queenstown for a quick visit before making our way to the charming coastal village of Strahan, where we’ll rest for the night and get ready for another day of adventure.
This our route for our first day driving from Hobart to Russell Falls, Lake Saint Clair, and Queenstown.
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We were the last ones to be picked up for the tour, and when we stepped onto the bus, Hoa looked around and jokingly asked, “Are we on the right bus?”, since everyone else seemed to be in their twenties or thirties. The whole bus burst into laughter, instantly breaking the ice and setting a lighthearted tone for the trip. The bus, which seats about 24 people, quickly filled with chatter and excitement as we settled into our seats. Soon after, we were on our way to our first destination Russell Falls and ready to begin our Tasmanian adventure.
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From the parking area, we followed a gentle walking trail that wound its way
through the lush temperate rainforest of Mount Field National Park.
The area around Russell Falls was declared a reserve
in 1885, making it the very
first protected natural area in Tasmania, and one of the oldest in Australia.
The path was easy and well-marked, shaded by towering swamp gums, which is a type of eucalyptus tree. Their scientific name is Eucalyptus regnans, and they’re actually the tallest species of eucalyptus, and one of the tallest trees in the world. Their straight, pale trunks can rise over 230 ft. high, creating a dramatic canopy above the path.
Along the way, our tour guide Tom gathered everyone briefly to admire the enormous swamp gums trees. Standing beneath them, we felt dwarfed by their immense trunks and canopy high above.
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Most of the tree trunks were covered in thick layers of green moss, giving the whole forest a soft, ancient feel.
The trail is lined with tall swamp gums, they and are common in the Mount Field National Park area.
We are now on the Tall Trees Walk, one of the most beautiful short trails in Mount Field National Park. This path winds through a grove of towering swamp gums, with their trunks stretching high above the forest floor. All around, the ground is carpeted with lush green ferns, their delicate fronds unfolding beneath the canopy.
We are now crossing a small wooden bridge, and it feels like stepping deeper into the heart of the forest.
The trail soon led us into an area where the ferns grew remarkably tall, some reaching above our heads and lining both sides of the path like a natural corridor.
In Tasmania, swamp gums dominate the lower slopes of places like Mount Field National Park. They have smooth, pale bark, very tall straight trunks, and grow in cool, wet forests, often surrounded by ferns and moss.
Walking through the path in the lush forest, surrounded by fresh foliage is so peaceful.
In this part of the forest, many of the giant swamp gums have lived for hundreds of years, and when they eventually fall, often due to age, wind, or shallow roots in the moist soil, and they create a dramatic scene.
The uprooted trunks lying on the ground, with their wide root systems exposed, become part of the forest’s natural cycle. Over time, these fallen giants are covered in moss, ferns, and fungi, slowly decomposing and providing nutrients for new plants to grow. It’s one of the beautiful things about Tasmania’s temperate rainforest, everything, even in decay, contributes to the life of the forest.
Along the way, I noticed many trees growing sideways instead of straight, their trunks thickly covered in moss and giving the forest a wild, almost enchanted look.
In Mount Field National Park, many trees lean or grow at angles because of wind exposure, uneven ground, or soft, wet soil. Strong winds, especially in Tasmania’s highland and rainforest areas, can push young trees as they grow, causing them to develop a permanent lean over time. The moist soil also makes it easier for roots to shift slightly, especially after heavy rain.
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Along the way there are lots of remnants of old trees slowly decomposing and returning to the forest floor. Many of these fallen trunks are covered in thick moss, which thrives in the cool, damp rainforest air.
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Some still have their roots partially attached, showing where they once stood tall. Over time, the wood inside decays, leaving behind just the outer bark shell, almost like a hollow sculpture of the tree that once was. These fallen trunks create rich habitats for fungi, insects, and small plants, playing an important role in the natural regeneration of the forest.
The soft tree ferns in Mount Field National Park are one of the most striking features of the forest. With their tall, slender trunks and wide, feathery fronds, they give the landscape a lush, prehistoric feel. These ferns thrive in the park’s cool, moist environment, often growing beneath the towering eucalyptus trees where the light is gentle and filtered.
Fallen trees
A creek along the way.
Bridge over a creek.
As we headed toward Horseshoe Falls, the trail led us across a small wooden bridge surrounded by dense forest.
Standing on the wooden bridge, we paused to watch the creek flowing gently beneath us.
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A fallen tree trunk over the creek that can serve as a bridge, if people are brave enough to walk over the tree trunk.
The forest is pretty dense and we are surrounded by really tall trees.
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As we continued along the trail, we began to see a few small waterfalls cascading over moss-covered rocks.
The water trickled and splashed through the ferns, creating a soft, soothing sound that filled the forest.
Standing on the small wooden bridge and watching the beautiful scenery all around.
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From there, we just followed the path along the Russell Falls creek.
We walked further and as the trail climbed higher, we followed the stream flowing gently over a wide, flat rocky bed.
The water glided smoothly across the surface before suddenly disappearing over the edge, cascading downward out of sight. From where we stood, we couldn’t see where it landed, it looked as if the water simply vanished into the forest below, perhaps dropping down the side of the mountain. The sound of the rushing water echoed through the trees, adding a sense of mystery and wonder to the scene.
Then we started descending a series of wooden steps, the pathway winding gently down through the forest.
A huge uprooted tree, despite the their colossal height, these trees have relatively shallow root systems compared to their mass. They are more vulnerable to being toppled in extreme weather events like strong gales or saturated ground. When one falls, it pulls up a massive plate of earth and roots.
Here you can see on the left, how colossal the tree is.
Continuing our hike...
I just really love seeing these giant ferns along the way. They are a signature feature on the landscape around Russell Falls.
Ferns are ancient plants, dating back to before the dinosaurs! The soft tree fern is a living relic, and walking among them feels like stepping back into the Jurassic period, which is why they look so exotic.
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From the path we first glimpsed the cascade from a wooded bridge, the sound of rushing water growing louder with every step. Rounding a final bend, the forest canopy parted, revealing the full, spectacular sight of Russell Falls, a tiered waterfall tumbling over multiple rocky ledges into the pool below. It was a perfect, cinematic reveal.
The falls were so popular that they were featured on one of the British colonies' first series of pictorial postage stamps in 1899, which was a deliberate effort to promote Tasmania as a tourist destination.
What makes Russell Falls so visually appealing is its tiered, cascading waterfall. The water flows over a series of steps or layers, and from the main viewing platform, you get a perfect view of the two most distinct lower tiers, which spill out over flat benches of horizontal siltstone rock.
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This tiered appearance is a result of different rock
layers: the water flows over horizontal beds of resistant sandstone
(creating the vertical drops) which sit above softer, easily eroded layers of
siltstone.
Our visit is now over and we are now walking back to where we came from.
In a rainforest, a fallen giant like that isn't just a hazard; it's a vital part of the ecosystem. Over time, it will slowly decompose, becoming a "nurse log" that provides nutrients and a moist, sheltered home for smaller plants, ferns, mosses, and fungi.
The hollow interior is a natural part of the aging process for many large Australian eucalypts like the Eucalyptus regnans. It is typically caused by fungal decay that enters the core of the tree through fire scars, damaged branches, or broken limbs. This decay slowly rots out the non-living heartwood while the tree remains alive by growing new wood around the perimeter. These hollows are actually vital as they become essential habitats (or "tree hotels") for native wildlife like possums and birds.
This area is so pretty with these giants Soft Tree Ferns, They thrive in the constant mist and shade of the deep gullies. The presence of these giant tree ferns, alongside the towering Eucalypts, creates a unique and dramatic two-layered forest ecosystem that makes the walk to the falls so special.
I noticed that this tree has twisted branches and found out later that the branches are much more resilient when they are twisted. Instead of all the wood fibers running in a single line (which would snap easily), the spiral pattern allows the branch to flex and absorb the stress from high winds and the immense weight of the crown without breaking. It acts like a twisted rope, distributing the force.
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Also as we were leaving the forest, I saw a wallaby hiding under some branches.
We hiked through the lush rainforest of Russell Falls, surrounded by towering eucalyptus trees and ferns. The trail led us across wooden bridges and past sparkling streams and small waterfalls, their sound echoing through the forest. As we descended the wooden steps, and discovered for the first time Russell Falls, it felt like walking through a hidden, enchanted world deep in Tasmania’s wilderness.
NEXT... Lake St. Claire/ Nelson Falls/Queenstown