A week in Saigon-1/19- 1/25/2025

Day 3-Vung Tau-1/21/2025

2nd Stop: Lunch at Co Ba Vung Tau

Next, we made our way to lunch at Co Ba Vung Tau, a well-known local spot that lives up to its reputation. The restaurant is spacious and clean, with a lively yet comfortable atmosphere that reflects its popularity among both locals and visitors.

So glad we stopped by here.  Their Banh Khot is so delicious, that we ordered many variations.

Their signature bánh khot is a small, crispy rice flour cups topped with a variety of ingredients. This one is topped with chopped pork and green onions.

This bánh khot is a combination of a variety of meat, crispy pork skin, shrimps, and green onions.

This one is with shrimps and green onions.

We also ordered a banh Xeo, a crispy type of crepe.  If you ever stop by in Vung Tau, I highly recommend this restaurant.

Before leaving the restaurant, and off to the side, there is even a thoughtfully decorated area where people can sit and take photos, especially charming with the festive Tet decorations that add a bright, celebratory touch.

Mai, Thiery, and Chi Be.

Canh and George.

3rd Stop: White Palace (Bach Dinh)

After lunch, we headed to Bach Dinh, better known to foreigners as the White Palace or by its French name Villa Blanche. The palace is a colonial-era villa on the slopes of Big Mountain in Vung Tau. From its hillside location between Front Beach and Mulberry Beach, the mansion looks out over the coastline and the busy road below.

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In  1992, the White Palace was officially recognized as a national historical and cultural relic. Today, it serves as both a museum and a reminder of the complex mix of colonial influence and Vietnamese history in Vung Tau. While not the grandest heritage site in Vietnam, it remains one of the city’s most notable landmarks.

The palace was built between 1898 and 1902 during the French colonial period,  and served as a retreat for French governors. Over the years, the White Palace also played other roles, it was once used to detain the Vietnamese emperor Thành Thái after he was exiled by the French. Today, the palace has been preserved as a museum, showcasing antiques, ceramics, and historical artifacts from the colonial era. Walking through its airy halls and shaded terraces, it feels like stepping back into a layered history, where French colonial influence and Vietnamese heritage quietly intersect.

 Its French name, Villa Blanche, was linked to Governor-General Paul Doumer, who oversaw its construction before returning to France, where he later became President.  During his time as Governor-General of Indochina, the residence was used as a place for rest and administration, and designed as a summer retreat for colonial officials, the villa combined European architectural styles with its striking white façade and commanding position on Big Mountain.

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Perched on the hillside overlooking the sea, the building immediately stands out with its elegant colonial architecture and sweeping views.  Before entering the White Palace, we paused on the terraces just below it. A set of stairs led down into a garden space, arranged with a rounded planter at its center, filled with greenery that softened the symmetry of the grounds.  In front, a graceful balustrade framed an open view of the ocean, the horizon stretching wide under the midday sun.

 Above us, rows of red and yellow flags fluttered briskly in the wind, their movement adding a sense of ceremony to the already striking setting.

History of the White Palace.

We are now entering the Royal family room.

Inside, the first room felt like a formal reception area, a living room of sorts with neatly arranged sofas and an air of quiet dignity.

On the wall hung a portrait of Emperor Thành Thái from 1906. He is photographed standing in a black tunic, wearing a sash and a brooch, his posture composed yet resolute. Thành Thái was a ruler of the Nguyen dynasty who became known for his subtle resistance to French colonial rule. Although he reigned under the constraints of French control, he quietly opposed their authority, which eventually led to his forced abdication and exile. Because of this, he is often remembered as a patriotic figure who stood, in his own way, against colonial domination.

As we moved through the room, the large windows drew the eye outward. Beyond them, the sea shimmered under the bright light, and in the distance, a mountain rose faintly against the horizon, giving depth to the view. To the left, a contrast of past and present came into focus, a cluster of modern high-rise buildings, some still under construction, standing tall against the coastal landscape. It was a striking juxtaposition, where history inside the palace met the rapidly changing skyline just beyond its walls.

Beautiful view from one of the window looking over at the Front Beach, the winding coastal road, and at then the Small Mountain where we recently visited the Giant Christ Statue.

The bedroom is actually pretty simple with a bed in the center.

Walking inside the Palace gave visitors a glimpse at the colonial era and how the French used to live.  The elegant staircase with metal railings, patterned tile floors, and airy rooms designed for colonial comfort.

We are heading inside the Royal family room which reflect that later chapter of the building’s history, when it became associated with the emperor rather than just a French residence.

By this time the palace was used by Vietnamese royalty, particularly Emperor Thành Thái of the Nguyen Dynasty.

However, he didn’t live there in the traditional sense of a primary residence, it was more of a place of confinement and supervision. The French authorities placed him there under house arrest for a period after he showed resistance to colonial rule.

Another photograph of Emperor Thanh Thai wearing a traditional Vietnamese outfit, and on the right, a list of the Nguyen Dynasty.

That's why inside you see a blend of French architectural elements.

View from the Royal family room.

What a wonderful view of the bay.

Descending those narrow, curved stairs into the lower level of White Palace really feels like stepping deeper into the rhythm of daily life as it once was. I  am not sure, but I think these are service stairs for the staffs members.

The dining room is especially striking in its sense of formality and scale. At the center sits that long, imposing table, now carefully roped off, set as if awaiting an important gathering.

The place settings with delicate white-and-blue porcelain patterned with floral motifs, reflect a refined European aesthetic, likely influenced by French tastes of the time. The hand-embroidered doilies add a softer, more intimate touch, hinting at the attention to detail and the quiet elegance expected in such a residence. Even without people, the room feels staged for conversation, ceremony, and hierarchy.

We are now leaving the dinning room.

Moving into the kitchen, the atmosphere shifts dramatically, from polished and ceremonial to practical and industrious. The large table for staff stands out, it tells a different story, one of the people behind the scenes who kept the household running

The space is expansive, almost surprisingly so, clearly designed to support large-scale meal preparation.

The enormous work surfaces and sturdy fixtures suggest a kitchen built for efficiency rather than display.

The size of the kitchen reflects the scale of operations, this wasn’t just cooking for a small household, but for officials, guests, and possibly events.

 It’s a reminder that behind the elegance of colonial life was a whole system of labor and organization, mostly unseen but essential.

So many cooking stations.  I am trying to use one of these woks, and it is quite heavy.

There is also a wine storage which is definitely French influence.

We are done with the visit and we are leaving the property.

NEXT... Day 3- Bãi Truoc/Cocktails